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Yeah if you're using another regulator when stepping down from 12V to 5V you're probably fine (I'm no expert either) but if someone's getting 5V directly from USB (as your wiki suggests as an option), looks like they should use a regulator.
I just noticed your wiki says "The 3.3 V outputs are not sufficient, as the board requires 5 V." which contradicts my experience. What's the source for this sentence? The MCP2515 datasheet says it can take as low as 2.7 V.
@aol @timurrrr thank you for your very detailed guides and code! I'm having an hard time with the OBDlibk LX so I think I will accelerate my plan of building a DIY probably based on Arduino following your examples.
I will probably go for a feather instead of itsybitsy because of better availability in Italy (with shipping fees the cost is nearly the same)
I'm really a n00b so some dumb questions will forllow
My plan is to use the OBD port and draw 12 V and ground from the right pins, pass them through a 12 V -> 5 V step down and then power the board from there and the MCP2515 from the board. Will this work?
Can you suggest a good 12v->5v and the best way to connect to the board?
When you do figure out some useful CAN IDs and conversion functions, please send me a pull request to add them to my GitHub project alongside https://github.com/timurrrr/RaceChronoDiyBleDevice/blob/master/can_db/ft86.md
Sure, should I create a mx5nc.md file?
Would be nice to gather info from various cars
@aol @timurrrr - thanks so much for your work! Happy to report I’ve got my DIY device up and running and reading codes. Pretty happy with my build (see pic below). I bring CAN H/L, 12V & GND in through an RJ-45 and step the voltage down to 5V which I I feed to the Adafruit BAT power input. (Pic below).
Sadly, I can’t find any info on CAN IDs for my car, so the next step is code reverse engineering.
Still have a long way to go, but thrilled with the progress, which I attribute to this forum and the work you have shared.